Most days I am a pretty good swimmer. I just swipe my gym card, receive two fluffy white towels, don my swim suit and dive into the pool. No problems. That is until I take BART to the Oakland International Airport at 5:30 in the morning after three hours sleep, slip onto an airplane, exit, and then rent a cheesy rental car (pics to follow) that I drive to the ocean. See, they don’t take my gym card or provide me towels at Kua Bay in Kailua-Kona on the Big Island Hawai’i.
No, here the locals are either in the water expertly riding waves to their crescendo finish and then turn around to do it all over again…and again. Why? Because it’s fun, yes? Or these locals stand on the beach scanning the water to altruistically make sure all yahoo tourists surface again once a wave blindsides them. That yahoo? That’s me. The muscular tan sun bleached hair local guys started to approach the water’s edge as they waited for me to surface again–because it took a while.
After hiking on lava rock a short distance to the beach, I slowly climbed down to the sandy area packed with a fair mix of yahoo tourists and local wave experts, probably around sixty people all basking in the Hawaii sunshine. The captain announced a balmy 85 degrees when we landed.
Calmly I watched the water first before taking a leap. Even I know to do that. The break pulled sharp left and sets were rolling in around eight waves at a time. I guessed their height around five to seven feet, so not too bad. But the break was sharp so that once the curl went up, it slammed down fast and hard. Still, my confidence felt good and so off I went, making sure my belongings were in a safe spot.
The water felt awesome so cool and refreshing from the heat; just grabbing a cup of pure Kona Joe and tuna poke (raw marinated fish in sesame oil and spices) and sitting outside, I broke a mean sweat. Hawai’i heat is simply relentless. I will say that this winter sun is far more mellow than the heat I’ve experienced other months.
I dove under several strong waves and sprung up strongly on the other side. Not the same as a swimming pool for sure, but lately I’ve been exercising often so a little bit of shape has happened on my flabby body. So far, so good.
Genius that I am, I get the bright idea to swim past the breaking line of waves. What I would later learn from my younger brother and the volunteer beach monitor is called the impact zone. And for good reason. A little bit to my credit, I’ve done this before. When the waves were two feet high, that is. I swim out to where the waves are not breaking and then swim from side to side for exercise. But what delusional confidence pure Kona coffee–not the 10% blend we buy on the mainland in Safeway–and fresh poke can give you.
So, I start to make my way through the impact zone. I dive under two tall and fierce waves–all is fine. Somehow I am pulled sharp to the left and this time I misjudge a wave by just a few seconds–literally. The monster crashes right on me. I’m somersaulting under water all over the place and counting my breathes–one thousand one, one thousand two, one thousand three, one thousand four, one thousand five–shit, I better pull my way up, I thought. I do and burst to the surface only to see another wave, the first one’s cranky toddler brother, crash on me again. No joke.
I spin around again as if in a washing machine, but this time I’m losing my breathe. I surface quickly and turn to see what vicious water awaits me. I’m lucky. I have a ten second break to start paddling towards shore. I’m looking behind me often. Problem is I’m headed right for some lava rocks. For the third time, a wave pummels me under water and I start to pray that my head doesn’t hit rock. I’m calm but praying fast. Lucky enough only my right knee scrapes the lava while my left bruises into the sand.
A few feet more and I can stand. I plop down in the water’s edge and start to gasp for air. A chunky white girl has beached herself. I’m breathing so hard my chest hurts. The locals who had been watching me give me some space because they had been approaching.
That’s the aloha spirit on this amazing island. I’ve traveled to so many nooks and crannies on Big Island Hawai’i over the years; this is probably my 15th visit. Yet the energy of people is simply that if you need our help we are here. This natural paradise is our home and you are welcome to it. If it gets rough, just reach out your hand for help. That’s a type of mana (energy) that emanates from mother nature herself–inviting, threatening, and loving.
You simply need to know how to read her. This month is the sad anniversary of the Indonesia tsunami that took around 250,000 lives in 2004. How strange, though, to see that very few wild animals died. They could read mother nature’s signs. I’m not at all saying that humans could have saved themselves from this terrifying natural event. Yet it is interesting to watch how animals supposedly less intelligent than us figure out the warning signs.
On a good day, I’m reasonably bright. (Try not to ask me what happens on a bad day; it’s not pretty.) But there I was reading the water signals all wrong. Funny how that pesky old ego of mine surfaces time and time ago. Time to go back to quiet meditation on the beach while the sun sets, which is what I did the following day when I took this picture. Notice the tide pools–around three feet deep and far, far away from crashing waves. I chose to swim these waters for today. Tomorrow is another day though, so stay tuned.